It would seem that as coats are getting bigger, so are lapels. As seen on the catwalks of Prada, Dries Van Noten and Yves Saint Laurent, this supersizing signals a loosening of the very skinny silhouette that us fashion editors and shoppers had become used to. A very clear conveyance that things were drooping came at Dior Homme, where skinny began with Heidi Slimane yet under the creative eyes of Kris Van Assche, MC Hammer Pants paraded down the runways making it all the bit more ghetto fabulous.

Next season’s silhouette also includes the most waspish of cinched waists – we predict that many a belt buckle will be done up for the winter to create this very specific shape. Whilst jackets and knits with a banded waist might be harder to translate into everyday wearability, the easiest transition for this look into day to day will be in the heaps of trenches and mac’s that we bore witness to throughout men’s fashion week. Dunhill’s first ever runway show under the creative genius that is Kim Jones was a particular highlight and had a couple of rainwear classics, as did Louis Vuitton and Dries Van Noten.

Things got a whole lot smarter and there were plentiful bow tie and waistcoat antics to smarten things up. Bottega Veneta took a geek-chic take with tweedy suits, a natty bow tie and thick rim specs lending to an air of the Oxbridge to proceedings whilst over at D&G it was a luxury-binge, one had to wonder if Stefano and Domenico had been a-sniffing those Sharpie marker pens such was the orgy of velvets, brocades paired with florals and printed tees that finished Milan fashion week, again many a bow tie and also the aristocratic cravat snuck a peek too. The cummerbund also emerged as being a key item too, seen in a variety of guises from fair-isle knit at Burberry Prorsum to a fold in those M.C pants at Dior Homme to give the effect of one.

James Tregaskes

Fashion Commentator