On-Schedule shows at London Fashion Week may be the headline-grabbers but dig a little deeper into the depths of the city and you’ll find a wealth of design talent waiting to be discovered. Here is what we at t5m are most looking forward to:
At only 23 years old, William Tempest has already started to live up to his whirlwind of a name. Vogue.com described his 2007 graduate collections as ‘one of the most exciting’ of the week and Hilary Alexander considers him one of the city’s ‘hottest young talents.’ His last collection was shown at Fashion Fringe and pieces were quickly snapped up by the likes of Emma Watson. This season William is branching out on his own; we’re expecting to see good things from this guy (and Hermione front row).
Elegance and luxury are two words to describe Qasimi; the label launched in 2008 by the architecturally-trained H.H. Khalid bin Sultan AlQasimi and Elliott J. Frieze. Silks and chiffons are offset with suede and leather and men and womenswear are met with equal attention to detail and distinctive tailoring. Expect a champagne reception!
Spijkers en Spijkers are Truus and Riet Spijkers, a pair of identical twins from The Netherlands whose heroines are Schiaparelli and Vionnet respectively. Founded in 2000, the duo works with strong and simple geometrical forms that show off the female body.
Not only does Avsh Alom Gur now head up the recently reignited Ossie Clark label, but he also manages his own line, which has shown Off-Schedule since September 2005. His line combines both Eastern and Western influences; luxury often countered with grunge and is one of the brightest lights on the circuit right now. (The very fact that he took up the Ossie Clark label shows he’s got some chutzpah.)
Alexander Groover is a Saint Martins-trained, London-based Californian whose signature style is elegant, edgy and highly sculptural. She took part in Dark Art Dress, an exhibition set in St. Pancras Crypt Gallery last Halloween. Definitely different, so expect an interesting collection.
Finally we come to Emilio de la Morena, a designer who creates ‘sculptural chic’ collections inspired by his Spanish heritage, often featuring complex use of obscure craft techniques. This season, Spanish sculptor Eduardo Chillida, pop art and colour are high on the agenda.
Of course this is just the tip of the iceberg. Countless more exciting young designers will be cutting their teeth on the Off-Schedule catwalks this season – this is London after all – and we’ll try our best to bring you as much of it as humanly possible…