It’s a known fact that Central Saint Martins’ MA course is well versed in fostering the fashion stars of the future; just look at its list of alumni for proof: Christopher Kane, Ashish, Roksanda Ilincic, Louise Goldin and Marios Schwab are just a few showing at LFW this season.
And this year’s turn out should prove no exception. As ever, the Friday night show was the hottest ticket in town: the queue scaled the length of the tent and only half of those made it in.
There were two distinct themes that ran throughout the seventeen collections on show. Bold, structured designs cropped up with big shoulders, cartoon like detailing or built up-silhouettes in often vibrant colours, as seen in the work of Laura Mackness, Charlotte La Roche and menswear designer Matteo Bigliardi.
But in other cases the designs were diaphanous in jersey and feather-light silk, billowing like sails down the catwalk. Katie Greenwood countered her elegant designs with a sportswear edge while Abigail Briggs opted for a statement shade of deep plum.
The overriding silhouette, whether structured or not, was long, long, long. Ankle-skimming or floor-length, there wasn’t much in the way of thigh on show and I wonder if it’s too much of a cliché to flag up that age-old sartorial observation: that hemlines rise and fall with the economy.
One designer who paid no heed to this though was the winner of the Harrods Design Award, David Koma, whose high-octane, off-the-wall glamour dazzled the end of the show. Black mini-dresses were adorned with mirrored panels in undulating architectural shapes, a bit of rubber thrown in for good measure.
The other two big winners of the night, joint recipients of the L’Oreal Professionnel Fashion Design Award were Oden Wilson and Michael Van Der Ham. Wilson’s tight collection of built up structural creations in a palette of coffee, copper and electric blue had something of the sleeping bag about them, but I liked them nonetheless.
One of my personal favourites was Van Der Ham who presented a collection of high-waisted, full-skirted outfits; cowl-necked with voluminous bell-sleeves in a patchwork of metallic paisley prints, velvet, mohair and jersey. Which actually sounds hideous on paper but never mind.
And there you have it. The stars of the future as predicted by t5m (and most likely the whole of the fashion press by Monday morning.) Until then, you heard it here first: but which one will be the next Christopher Kane? Place your bets now.
