Day 3 at New York Fashion Week began with a healthy injection of glamour from Georges Chakra, whose collection was dominated by easy to wear cocktail dresses and ball gowns. Crimson, black and steely greys were the colour palette of choice, with plenty of satin and chiffon decorated with subtle beading and neat panels. His twist on traditional red carpet wear was to reverse many of the designs, with buttons and collars on the back of his dresses, and his nod to jackets and coats came in the form of long opera gloves.
For something altogther more casual, Lacoste bought us a collection of colour blocked, preppy basics – ribbed tights, off the shoulder dresses and jersey jumpsuits – all offset with side pony tails. Sporty, upbeat and not a million miles away from Benetton, the collection was heavily influenced by the youth discos of the eighties, as well as Lacoste contemporaries including Sonia Rykiel and Bill King.
Flying the flag for Korean talent were Andy & Debb, who have been described as the Marc Jacobs of South East Asia, with a collection of feminine, sophisticated and grown up looks. Sheer blouses and immaculately tailored trousers were mixed up with satin shift dresses and neat, boxy jackets, in modest, dusty shades, making this one of the most effortlessly elegant shows of the day.
The Academy of Art University, based in San Francisco have been staging shows in New York since 2005, showing capsule collections from six of it’s students enrolled on their Fashion Design program. High octane, progressive and enthusiastic, the womenswear collections drew inspiration from Italian architecture, with indulgent structures and lines, to mathematics.
Adam Lippes, the man behind Adam, was clearly using this New York Fashion Week as an opportunity to buck preconceptions of his signature style, moving away from sporty basics, and instead showcasing a series of more mature, grown up looks. Well-darted dresses, modest spatterings of sequins and a few modestly-billowing maxi dresses made for an elegant look towards A/W 2010, with chunky knits and cardigans belted with ladylike slim belts.
Peter Som sought inspiration from Ang Lee’s Taking Woodstock, with chunky boots and platforms in outlandish colours and a mismatch of florals, beading and checked teadresses and knee length skirts. Wrapped up in fur collared jackets and tweeds, the seventies have never looked so good.
Ohne Titel’s collection of drapped silks and washed velvet has already seen comparisons with Donna Karen, bringing a new kind of cool to a sludgy colour scheme of khakis, greys and chocolate browns. Masculine style trouser suits went hand in hand with cut out mesh mini dresses, with neatly seamed tights and draped leather.
Hollywood favourite Prabal Gurung opened with a conceptual coat, which was white walking towards you, and black walking away, a theme which continued with various trousers and jackets. But it wasn’t all avant garde, with plenty of pretty frocks, including a viscose cocktail dress and a strapless crimson gown with OTT ruffles.
Twinkle by Wenlan was all whimsical fairytales with a Hansel and Gretel inspired collection, with sharp shapes and breezy silhouettes in shades of mustard and blue. Thick cable knit scarves were practical and dreamy, layered over black lace.
Closing the day was Arise Magazine African Collective, with oversize shapes and asymmetric silhouettes enhanced with flashes of turqoise, royal blue and gold amongst the brown, black and beige. Grey ribbed tights and boyish brogues completed the look, along with elbow length black gloves.
