Christopher Hooton

There was something fishy going on at LFW this afternoon with Felder Felder presenting deep oceanic blues, gills and frills.

Deep chasms of colour opened up in the middle of dresses with sharp, vertebrae-like splashes running down them. Some subtle detailing of tight folds appeared like fish gills and the whole thing had a very aquatic feel. Many were expecting an explosion of colour from the Felders and up to this point they were correct, but after the bold, almost McQueen-esque prints came a much more austere, muted run of deep browns and dirty beiges. It all got a bit rock chic but not in an overt way, leather was used sparingly as dress straps, and the clothes were loose and hung off the models.

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Hannah Marshall was more refined and arguably the better of the two shows. There was a very 90s feel and little decoration or mess. The colours were prodominently greys and it was not just the models’ height that made them appear like skyscrapers. Many will mistake this collection as ‘lifeless’ or ‘dull’ but the beauty was in its simplicity. Hannah Marshall’s clothes were sophisticated and sculpted, the only big shocks came with a bizarre manifestation of origami in the form of giant, concertina folds on the back of one or two pieces. It was on the whole an architechtural, powerful and pure collection.